The Adventure

A Camera's View of the New Bugaboos Via Ferrata Experience

This spring the CMH guides built a new Via Ferrata in the Bugaboos on a little-known rock buttress of smooth quartzite know as Trundle Ridge. Last month I photographed one of the first teams to ascend the new route. CMH Bugaboos assistant manager Peter Macpherson was our guide for the day. We talked about how diverse the CMH Summer Adventure program has become, and how hard it is to describe the experience. Grandparents can go on leisurely hikes near the helicopter, while their kids climb a via ferrata or hike all day, and their grandkids slide on alpine snowfields and splash in tiny streams - and then afterwards everyone sits down together for a gourmet dinner. How do you compare that to the average adventure travel experience?

From the view out the window of the helicopter of the CMH Bugaboo Lodge, just minutes after finishing a coffee, to standing on the summit of the via ferrata with the otherworldly Bugaboo Spires in the background, here are a few shots that tell the tale better than words:

The next day two of the via ferrata climbers went on an eight-hour hike along a serpentine ridge overlooking the Bugaboos.  One of them sat on the tundra with a view of the Bugaboo Spires and a palette of watercolours, painting the toothy peaks and nibbling lox  croissants. The other two went hiking with their kids in a wonderland of glaciers, wildly-coloured lakes, and beaches of crystalline sand.

Want to see more of what the CMH Summer Adventure is all about?  Subscribe to this blog - or better yet find out for yourself!

Photos by Topher Donahue

Via Ferrata-ahhh- An Interns Point of View

For the first week of the summer season, I was invited up to the Bobbie Burns Lodge for some high flying fun. So, on the morning of July 6^th I met up with a couple of other people from the office and the rest of the guests, and we were on our way up to the lodge! We did an afternoon hike so that the guides could figure out groups for the following day. Then we came back to an amazing dinner, drinks on the deck, and bed!

The following morning we were awoken by the bell at 7:15am for our stretch class. The stretch room was filled with all sorts of nervous chatter as today was the day that we would be tackling the via ferrata. With people moving back and forth, debating if they would do it or not, I was thinking nothing of it… I mean, come on, this thing is safe, you are clipped in the whole time... how bad can it be! So, after more contemplation over breakfast, we loaded the helicopter for the flight up to the base.

When we arrived at the start, Mark, one of our guides, pointed up to a distant peak. He then explained to the group that was where we would be in a couple of hours. At that point, it really didn’t seem possible that we would be sitting on top of something so far away.

So we started the climb. We reached the first rope across a patch of snow. This was great practice for the clip out clip in techniques for our harness system. After walking around the corner, we reached the first rock wall we had to climb…

It was at this point that I realized that I don’t do this sort of thing… I would be far more comfortable skiing down most of this, but climbing up… Yikes! On my way up the first pitch, which was only about 20 feet high, I thought to myself- Oh jeeze, I am pretty high up! And this was just the beginning...

For the 20 feet I felt was high at the beginning, would turn in to 3,000 feet by the end. And so I kept climbing, one iron step at a time. Winding our way up through boulder fields and ridgelines, we crossed planks, small bridges, and boulders. Eventually we hit a snack spot just below the first peak.

 It was at this point where Sarah asked me how it was going. The only words I could think of were: “I am completely out of my element”. And this was true, because I was. After taking some mocking from the other group, we passed them to cross a snow patch to the start of the first peak. Now, the first peak truly does look impressive from any angle. Mostly because it looks exactly like the fang of a creature that could eat you. As someone who has never rock climbed on natural rock, I was intimidated to say the least. Of course the fact that I let the entire group ahead of me didn’t help either… Having to look up towards the summit to see nothing but the harness clad rear ends of my climbing partners all the way to the summit did not exactly instill the confidence in me that I needed. So, up I went. As I reached the Nimbus sub peak, I truly felt on top of the world. Even though the higher Nimbus peak is right beside you, connected by what can only be described as a behemoth of a suspension bridge, you still do feel like you are as high as you can go. It is at this point that you make the short decent to the start of the famous bridge.

The bridge. The bridge is one thrilling thing to look at. 2x4’s unevenly spaced across a span with a 2500 foot drop to the valley floor below. It is seriously something straight out of Indiana Jones, minus the snakes, I hate snakes… So after 96 shaky steps across the bridge, you reach the other side where you never thought you would be so happy to hug a big piece of rock.  Then you look up and you realize you now have to climb something higher than the peak you were standing on 20 minutes ago. So you unclip from the bridge, and clip in to the cable which leads to the summit. Of course when they built the via ferrata, the guides put the route as close to the edge as possible so that you could experience maximum exposure the entire way up. This I was actually ok with as I found that you quickly get used to the heights and it becomes much more comfortable. The climb to the summit finishes of with a section where you literally have to hoist yourself up on to the summit. This is one of the greatest feelings in the world as you push that last little bit to finally reach the summit. Once on the summit, we sat down to enjoy our lunches that we had packed that morning.

Of course, standing on the summit would seem like a great place to have a drink of water. At least that is what I thought. So I unclipped my water bottle from my backpack and wedged it between my legs. It turns out that stainless steel water bottles do not grip very well against metal carabineers. Next thing I know, one of our guides was yelling at those below to watch out as my water bottle bounced the 3,500 feet to the valley floor. Needless to say I was, by my own fault, very thirsty for the rest of the day.

Luckily for us, our decent was far more controlled and graceful than that of my water bottle. It involved rappelling, down-climbing, and snow sliding in rain gear before getting to the pick up for the flight back to the lodge.

That night I was so tired that I had a nap prior to dinner and was woken by the dinner bell, although I still think I didn’t actually wake up until about half way through dinner. Everyone had stories to share from their adventures of the day, with the biggest theme being the smiles from all who had accomplished something truly remarkable!

Bodacious in the Bugaboos – Yoga Rocks hits the Bugs!

Article by Ellen Slaughter

Angie Smith, our yoga instructor, and I are just back from hosting the first “Bodacious in the Bugaboos” girlfriend getaway of 2010. And all I can say is...WAHOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!

In response to requests from last year’s “Bodacious Babes” for more of Angie’s soul-soothing yoga on a future trip,our “Yoga Rocks” firlfriend getaway was born. With all the classic elements of our popular “Bodacious in the Bugaboos” getaways – guided alpine hiking, sunrise yoga, laugh-out-loud fun and friendship intact, we added daily après-hiking yoga to this trip. So, late each afternoon we flew back to the lodge, and led by Angie, we quieted our minds and stretched our bodies. Everyone agreed it was the perfect complement to our high-octane days of hiking.

Little did we know that our CMH mountaineering guides in the Bugaboos had a big surprise in store for us. On our third day after a spectacular ridge hike in the morning, the “Bodacious Babes” geared up with climbing harnesses and helmets and pushed their limits on the brand new breathtaking Bugaboos via ferrata. What a thrill for each and every one of us!

A night of wacky celebration was the icing on the cake as the Bodacious ladies, lodge guests and staff danced, “limbo-ed” and “hoola-hooped” the night away at the “Tight ‘n Bright” party.

Add to all this Chef David Weslowsky's scrumptious meals, Guylaine’s mouth-watering baking, welcoming hospitality from all the staff and guides and a BIG dose of ROTOR FEVER and voila, we all came home with big smiles on our faces and memories to treasure!!

Stay tuned for news of two more “Bodacious in the Bugaboos” girlfriend getaways this August. A couple of spots are available on our August 26 – 29^th trip. I invite you to come and live large with us in the Bugaboos! For more information please call 1.800.661.0252.

Ellen Slaughter
CMH Bodacious Trip Host

Bugaboo Via Ferrata - What an Adventure!

I reached up to wipe the sweat out of my eye as I scanned the rock infront of me for a handhold. "I can't figure out where to put my foot", Alysha called out below me. "You're doing great.  There's a spot to your right," replied Rob Rohn, Director of Mountain Operations for CMH Summer Adventures.

This morning we were part of a group trying out the yet-unnamed via ferrata route the guides have built on a ridge northwest of the Bugaboo lodge. 

"We have seen a decline in the desire for traditional mountaineering routes," said Peter Macpherson, Assistant Area Manager at the Bugaboo Lodge.  "But at the same time, there's been an increased interest in doing 'something thrilling'".  Back in 2007, in response to that increase the guides at the Bobbie Burns constructed the Mt. Nimbus via ferrata route which thrills visitors to the lodge on a weekly basis. This summer guests to the Bugaboos will also get a taste of that same thrill.

After crossing a snow-slope where you could literally feel the sun melting the snow beneath your feet, our group of 10 gathered at the base of the route.  ACMG certified mountain guide Bob Sawyer helped us don our harnesses and via ferrata gear then lead us through a safety briefing of how to stay connected to the permananetly fixed cables that make up the route.

A combination of steel cables and rebar rungs line the route up Trundle mountain.  The Bugaboo guides installed the route last week once enough snow had cleared to safely access the route.  In places along the route I found myself searching, seemingly in vain, for the next place to put my foot or hand to raise myself up, up, up the mountain.  I'd find myself thinking "They need to put another rebar step in here. I'm stranded."  Then with a little more focus and shifting my body against the rock I'd find a way up.  The feeling of accomplishment was intense everytime I overcame one of these challenges.  And the encouragement from the guides and the other members of our climbing party kept us all in high spirits.  In amidst conversations about siblings, wildflowers and handholds, we shared jokes, sang songs and lived in the moment.  Other cares left behind for the day.

Our group this morning consisted of myself and the Bugaboo Lodge staff and guides who are already at the lodge preparing for the first guests of the Summer Adventures' season who will arrive on Friday. I asked Tanya, one of the lodge staff members who celebrated her 25th birthday today on Trundle Mountain, how she felt about the experience.  There was no disguising the trepidation in her voice at the start of the day where she described her fear of heights.  "There's just an amazing sense of accomplishment.  I can't believe I did it!"

After two and a half hours on the rock we completed the route, removed our harnesses and thanked our guides before sitting on the summit to enjoy lunch and bask in the sun.  As we got up to leave and continue hiking along the glorious Black Forest Ridge I commented to Alysha "Hmm, all that and I never even broke a nail."

If you'd like try your hand on one of CMH Summer Adventures' via ferrata routes this summer, or if something more horizontal is what your after, contact CMH Reservations at 1.800.661.0252 or visit us online at www.cmhsummer.com.

Via Ferrata versus Television

When it comes to life-changing summer adventures, young and old alike are moved by experiencing the Mt. Nimbus Via Ferrata at CMH Bobbie Burns.  I had a chance to speak with Jonah Lefkoff, a well-spoken kid from Boulder, Colorado, who climbed Mt. Nimbus last summer with his father. When I arrived at Jonah’s house, he rushed into another room, yelling excitedly, “Wait, there is something I really have to show you.” 

A minute later he emerged with a framed print showing him and his father high-fiving on a craggy summit.  The photo captures one of those moments any father and son would be lucky to experience even once in a lifetime, a moment when they are best of friends and neither one of them would want be any other place, or with any other person, on earth.

 
The Mt. Nimbus Via Ferrata at the CMH Bobbie Burns lodge is unique in North America.  Its closest cousin is the cables route on Yosemite’s Half Dome – a metal pathway to a summit that would otherwise need technical climbing skills and tools. On a Via Ferrata, you wear a climbing harness and clip into two tethers attached to a cable.  You move along an exposed mountain like rock climbers, but the ascent is made easy by steel rungs drilled into the rock at convenient intervals. 

Here is what Jonah had to say about the experience:

TD: What is the best thing you have ever done?

JL: The Via Ferrata in the Bobbie Burns with my dad!

TD: What was the hardest part?

JL: In the beginning I was not so sure I liked it, but about halfway I really cheered up.   My dad asked me if I wanted to go back to the lodge.  I told him I wanted to keep going, and after that I felt a lot better.

The Via Ferrata’s point of no return, or at least no easy return, is a flat spot where the helicopter can land just before the first tower.    After that, it is possible to retreat, but it is easiest to keep going over the top.  The first summit is a sharp point where you literally throw one leg over the top, like you’re sitting on a horse, and one leg is hanging over one side of the mountain and the other leg dangles over the other. Then, the most outrageous part of the Via Ferrata greets you – a 60-meter long suspension bridge that hangs far above a mountain valley.  It is entirely secure, but feels like walking in the sky. 

TD: What was the scariest part of the adventure?

JL: The bridge.  I kept telling myself, ‘Don’t look down!  Don’t look down!

TD: Did you look down?

JL: I looked down - mostly!

TD: (Jonah's mom, Cindy, told me his one vice is television, so I wanted to see how a real experience compared to his favorite show.) If you could either watch Sponge Bob or do the Via Feratta, which would you do?

JL:  (Long pause) I’d watch Sponge Bob and then do the Via Ferrata - with my dad.

I pondered the power of television.  Standing on top of rock spire in the middle of the wilderness with dad sounds pretty awesome, so Sponge Bob must be out of this world – or television must be more like heroin.  A recent study showed televison usage by kids is at an all time high, with kids averaging over 28 hours of television a week - more than a month each year - glued to the boob tube.  See a full report on the study here. 

TD: How do you feel after climbing the Via Ferrata compared to after watching Sponge Bob?

JL: Hmm.

TD:  How do you feel after watching Sponge Bob?

JL: Sort of like speaking this inappropriate language because I just heard it.

TD: And how about after doing the Via Ferrata?

JL: Sort of this tired and excited feeling at the same time.

TD: So if you had to choose one, either watch Sponge Bob or climb the Via Ferrata with your dad, which would you do?

JL: Even though it is a lot of work, I would climb the Via Ferrata with my dad.

It was long after the interview was over that I realized the power of what Jonah had told me.  I was struck with this question:

If Jonah had never shared outdoor experiences with his parents, would a television show trump his father in his rankings of life experiences?

Note: Jonah spent numerous days rock climbing with his father near their home in Boulder, Colorado, before visiting the Bobbie Burns in August of 2009, but rock climbing experience is not necessary.  The Mt. Nimbus Via Ferrata is appropriate for most teenagers and adults who like a bit of adventure in their lives.         

From War to Wonder – a Brief History of the Via Ferrata

By the late 19th century, seeking adventure in the mountains was in vogue in Europe but, with the equipment and technique of the day, difficult sections of popular climbs were slow and dangerous.   Climbers began installing permanent metal fixtures (ladders, cables, rungs and bridges) to bypass these hazards.  

The first recreational era of the Via Ferrata lasted only a few years.  By early in the 20th century, the Alps became a primary battleground of World War I.   The Italians positioned their front line across their most rugged mountains, the Dolomites, a region now famous for scenic skiing, climbing and hiking among huge spires and rock walls.  The Via Ferrata were built to give the military access to the higher ground and strategic sites where the mountains provided natural, formidable, defenses.  Several old military Via Ferrata were rebuilt and are maintained by the Italian Alpine Club.  Adventurers in the Dolomites now enjoy the most exposed museum on the planet with a Via Ferrata alongside trenches and other relics of mountain warfare.

In the late 1800s, the Americans also installed cables and ladders to give tourists access to difficult and popular summits.  Both the Cables Routes on Colorado’s Longs Peak and California’s Half Dome were drilled into precipitous granite peaks.   Longs Peak's Via Ferrata was prone to rockfall and was later removed for safety reasons, but the Sierra Club rebuilt the Half Dome cables to withstand thousands of ascents each summer.

There are few places in North America where Via Ferrata construction is appropriate for land management or the wilderness ethic.  Mountain climbers are some of the more outspoken opponents of the Via Ferrata, as modern climbing equipment and technique make virtually any peak accessible.  Ironically, modern sport climbs are arguably Via Ferrata, with metal expansion bolts drilled into the rock at frequent intervals to allow human passage.

One of the airiest Via Ferratas on the planet is located deep in the Purcell Range of the Columbia Mountains of British Columbia.  Just a few kilometers north of the Bugaboos, where heli-skiing was born 45 years earlier, the guides of CMH Bobbie Burns have constructed the Mount Nimbus Via Ferrata.  It follows a narrow path along a knife-edged ridge that leads over the twin-spired summit of Mt. Nimbus, and crosses a 60-meter suspension bridge between the two peaks.  (See a video here.)

The idea for the Mt. Nimbus Via Ferrata began with a mountain version of a summer camp-style ropes course built near the CMH Bobbie Burns Lodge.  This Adventure Trail takes guests through a thrilling series of zip lines and small Via Ferrata installations over the glacial-tinted turquoise waters of Vowell Creek .  When CMH guests started booking trips to the Bobbie Burns primarily for the the Adventure Trail, the guides were reminded that people love safe,  thrilling mountain adventures.  The guides realized adventures for everyday people could be created with the addition of short Via Ferrata sections to surmount overhanging rock or bypass dangerous sections.  The guides then built a short Via Ferrata on Mt. Syphax to connect a long, classic day of easy climbing.

Realizing the potential, the Bobbie Burns guides visited Europe to learn how to install a full-scale Via Ferrata and returned to equip Mt. Nimbus.  Mt Nimbus has since been featured in National Geographic Adventure Magazine, The Robb Report, The Los Angeles Times, Men’s Journal, and other print and online publications.

Helicopter is the only realistic way to access Mt Nimbus.  It is located in the most remote part of the Purcell Mountains and is an exclusive experience for participants in the CMH High-Flying Adventure program.